Wednesday, 18 June 2014

A Man's Guide to Australian AW14

By James Lourey

With another few months of deserted beaches, crisp mornings and the shorter days gracing Sydney, the silver lining takes the shape of the abundance of extensive clothing and accessories necessary to adapt to the season. As the influx of trench coats, leather gloves and questionable scarves come into play, one can be confused with what is essential to the stylish survival of autumn and winter. Recently the chilled seasons have been overshadowed by the looming expectations of the following spring summer trends and collections; and fair enough too, as Australian fashion enters the winter limelight, European and American markets are already presenting the pieces and style ideas of the following spring/summer collections. However, take this time to view the mid year as an opportunity to get back to the classical interpretations of style with the vast range of choice and combinations that is the season grants a gentleman. 
By taking the advantage of recognising the upcoming 2014/15 spring summer trends, beat others to it by applying the basics of the upcoming seasons to your winter style. For example, it’s been seen in spring European and American collections that there is a large focus on relaxed tailoring, projected by designers in loose fitted shirting and casual bottom wear. To exert this trend into winter terms, implement the longer trench coats and large sweatshirts when layering, building the idea of power in height. We as men take into account the finer details to achieve the overall status quo; style and knowledge of the materiel self is no different. 

The XY Venture presents eight categories of male fashion conquerable in order to heat up Autumn/Winter14. 


FOOTWEAR
Shoes are the absolute first thing I look at in the early stages of analysing ones sense of fashion, girls included. Unfortunately in post adolescence a large amount a guys haven't moved on from the notion of the torn and tattered Vans and Converse; damn shame. One pair of shoes can sort a man out from casual to black tie, with a big interest lately into the areas of brushed suede, drivers shoes and my personal favorite, the monk strap. The following are some picks to take your through the seasons. 

Tan double monk straps by Aquila

Cavendish by Crockett & Jones

Sabugal by Windsor Smith



EYEWEAR

With sunglasses carrying the year round relevancy, it’s crucial to get them right. It’s true, the sunglasses shape and shade of the sunglasses plays a part in how every guy will wear them, but be urged away from the predictable Ray Ban aviators and fake Balinese made wayfarers. Taking pride in an original, timeless and authentic pair of sunglasses will spur pride in your possession. In my case, my trusty pair of Tom Ford Snowdon specs luckily brighten up my mug and suit any event. If your unsure how the right pair of sunglasses should look on a guy, flick over to either John Mayer or David Beckham's instagram, they emphasise the success in getting the right pair every time for every occasion. Personally my head goes straight to my hands when I see the all too typical gent going about his day with either the his sunglasses competing with the size of his head or the shape indistinguishable to placing a rectangle over his eyes; sort it out buddy! If you haven't found your pair yet, keep searching- it’s worth it. For the meantime, here are some current and classic picks. Tip: we all appreciated the reflector lenses, but their moment in the sun has passed.

Signature Max Pittion

 Purple label Keyhole Sunglasses by Ralph Lauren

Snowdon by Tom Ford

Fake it 'till you make it. Tisan by Quay Eyewear $40




OUTERWEAR

Practical, necessary and a wardrobe staple this time of year. Having your own favored trench, peacock coat or even thick wool blazer can see the item applicable from casual dinner to the coat rack during your business meeting. Personally I’d steer clear of peacock duffle coats; there's no need to have bulk with the length of a sports jacket. The longer and well shaped trench coats are taking preference. Another early entry inspiration for SS15 is returning to the 90’s; in outerwear's case, large and intimidating overcoats with length and monotone colours playing a big part - think Harvey Spector going to court in the middle of New York's Autumn.  
Bloomfield Coat by MJ Bale 

My infinite respect to the buyer of this.
Wet nylon padded bomber by Helmut Lang. 

Brushed brown w/subtle check by Herringbone

Cobalt Blue will match you with SS14/15 colour of the season.
Short technical trench coat by Burberry.




BOTTOM WEAR

Tis the season for original, raw, unwashed denims with distressed details; think your dad’s Levi’s in the 80’s, just change up the cut. Treat this trend as a get out of jail free card. When unsure what to put on before going pretty much anywhere, you can’t go wrong with a straight cut or skinny pair of jeans. A pair of jet black jeans/chino’s also make the cut this autumn winter, both practical and extremely versatile. Over distressed denim will continue to be a common sign of high end style for a while to come; get on board with crude torn pants giving off the rustic distressed DIY persona.
Graphic pants by Kenzo

Gee Gee Slummin by Ksubi

511' by Levi




FRAGRANCE

My personal favorite, let’s get into it. The right scent will define the man, whether or not you prefer a full robust musk (Hermes Terre), a sense of light, floral nature (Tom Ford Neroli Portofino) or looking to carry the scent that will encourage that Emily Ratajkowski lookalike you've just met to join you for another drink (Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur dè male). Your trusty cologne bottle at the bottom of your bag is the key to the final touch of class you hold above so many others lost in the Lynx and Brut oblivion.
Neroli Portofino by Tom Ford

Fluer de Male by Jean Paul Gaultier

Acqua di Parma - a cult classic 

Green irish tweed by Creed

Terre d'hermes by Hermes




LUGGAGE
It’s too typical today to see the common man blinded by the sales at General Pants co. carrying around the Herschel Heritage backpack or Supreme sausage shoulder bag. With a basic medium sized leather carry bag, you have ticked all the boxes scaling from travel to gym visits. The extra money spent to obtain your classic leather carry bag will pay for itself in individuality and style. 

Brushed leather weekend bag by Zara 

Wallie duffle black by Alexander Wang 

Buckley leather gym bag by Tom Ford




STATEMENT PIECES

Difficult to establish, however when one has delved into the options of bold colours, alternating patterns and mixing prints, the flow of confidence and unique self style raises immediate interest from others. Statement pieces in autumn and winter are more often than not found in items such as heavy fleeces, footwear and accessories; the use of a bold colored pocket square tucked neatly into your jacket or suit creates a contemporary design on a long standing tradition. Another dominating style trend over the past two years really has been the idea of sports luxe. You may have noticed the large numbers on the back of t-shirts, subtle stripes coming into sweatshirts and jumpers and unfortunately people wearing nike free runs with small casual outfits; with thanks to Melbourne street style. Applying this trend is still prevalent with labels such as St. James, Herringbone and even Hermes who follow the french nautical stripe design and the equestrian revival.
Alexander McQueen skull patterned pocket square

Russel velvet high top by Tom Ford

Sailor stripe logo sweater by Kenzo 




HOME

As your temple becomes more part of your autumn winter season acting as a base of retreat from dropping temperatures and unpredictable Sydney weather, attention to detail in terms of decor is a necessity. For me, it's all about staying warm... alcohol! A well groomed bar offers a well needed night cap after a cold day out and a base for socialising when venturing out into the cold is passed up by your guests.  
Figue da la foret by Glasshouse 

Whiskey decanter by Royal Doulton 

Tom Ford: Ten Years (Hardback)


Make autumn and winter your own personal excuse to optimise your sense of style in every aspect of your routine. With your comfortable practicality shown in your unique understanding on how a winter man should present himself while interpreting early what everyone will be wearing in six months, you're killing two birds with one stone. 

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